The afternoon High Society Dayclub Brunch at Nove Italiano on the 51st floor of the Palms is not like the 1956 classic movie with Frank Sinatra and Grace Kelly. Kelly’s whimsical ballgowns give way to scantily-clad servers wearing fuschia tutus and tight corsets while taking your drink order.
The term “High Society” takes on a rather interpretive, tongue-in-cheek meaning. There’s no real dress code, table etiquette is virtually non-existent and you have to serve yourself. You can let that part slide — after all, it is Vegas.
The staff has fun, flirty costumes on. Large silver candelabra-like cupcake holders and brightly colored netting lines the restaurant. It’s not the Upper East Side type of high society — more like SoHo meets Cirque du Soleil high society.
Fair enough. I need coffee.
While I stagger to the buffet table to pour myself a cup, I start to cheer up. There’s actually a nice spread of coffees, teas and hot chocolate at the beverage station. There’s even a large bowl of fresh whipped cream for topping.
Mimosas, bloody Marys and bellinis are $15 — in addition to your brunch buffet price. The cantaloupe bellini is good.
The noise level at High Society is beyond loud. Sunday mornings here are Saturday night’s remains —extremely loud pounding house music gets pumped throughout the restaurant and if dancing on tables at 2 p.m. on a Sunday is your thing, you’ve come to the right place.
I, however, would have preferred if I could hear my friend (who was sitting next to me) when she was talking. I ended up having to settle for crude sign language — pointing at the bottle of Pellegrino when she wanted more.
Even with the noisy ambiance, there are redeeming qualities to the High Society brunch. First, the view of Las Vegas is spectacular. Second, the food is good.
Served buffet style, the brunch offers delicious lox and schmear, an assortment of pastries, danish and a shellfish tower. Grilled and roasted vegetables, assorted meats and cheeses and a variety of fresh salads line the buffet. The classic Caesar isn’t bad and the Caprese salad is delicious with fresh basil. The paninis and thin-crust pizzas were okay.
I skipped the chafing dish full of pre-made seasoned scrambled eggs in favor of freshly poached eggs and a freshly made frittata. I paired them with plump house-made chicken apple sausages and country potatoes, which were both excellent.
The desserts at High Society are delicious. There is a selection of oversized cupcakes available. I went for a moist carrot cupcake with cream cheese frosting. There is also tiramisu, chocolate covered strawberries, cream puffs and cakes.
The tres leches cake is one of the best I’ve had. It’s extremely moist, flavorful and lined with fresh strawberries. A house-made black and white cookie made my meal. The delicious cake-like bottom and half chocolate, half vanilla frosting is one of my favorites and it’s done well at High Society.
While the menu changes weekly, the talented Chef Geno Bernardo will be sure to satiate your appetite. Now, if they could only turn down that racket…
High Society Dayclub Brunch
at Nove Italiano in the Palms
Sundays starting at 1 p.m.
$30 per person