Far be it for me to ever complain about another French brasserie-style restaurant in Las Vegas. But already home to such restaurants as Mon Ami Gabi, Morels and Bouchon, Las Vegas isn’t hurting for French brasseries. However, I find Comme Ça fills both my desire to have delicious French food and an inspiring atmosphere.
On the third level of the Cosmopolitan, a trendy, vibrant hotel on the Las Vegas Strip, Comme Ça creates a much more modern, sleek design and atmosphere than its other French counterparts. The old-school brasserie lighting fixtures give way to honey-yellow blown glass fixtures that glow in the evening. The usual dark woods and brown overtones are replaced with shades of light gray and pops of ruby red.
The front bar area offers a lounge-like room with low-back chairs and comfortable booths. There is also an outdoor patio with stunning views of the Las Vegas Strip.
While the décor is updated, the food from Chef David Myers is fresh and flavorful. It is standard French bistro fare — done well.
When I chatted with Myers, he seemed enthusiastic about his French bistro being at the Cosmopolitan and in Vegas.
“I was really excited to be able to come to Vegas just because there is such a high caliber of restaurants and chefs. It’s almost like you’re in New York or Paris when you get this concentration of chefs together,” said Myers.
With that level of high competition, Myers is on his “A” game. On a recent trip to Comme Ça, I was treated to items like the Grand Plateau, a two-tiered presentation full of chilled seafood like raw oysters, mussels, lobster, crab and shrimp.
Quite possibly one of my favorite menu items is the cream of mushroom soup. The ultimate comfort food, this aromatic creamy, velvety soup is served over a tender foie gras agnolotti. I could probably eat it every day.
For an appetizer, the roasted bone marrow is succulent and delicious. A five-inch bone is split in half length-wise. Then, the fatty tissue inside of the beef bone is roasted to a crisp on the outside but still tender on the inside. At Comme Ça, spread a little over toast with a little oxtail jam and lemon parsley.
The crispy skate Grenobloise is served simply, with lemon, butter and capers. The fish is light and tender on the inside with a crisp flaky exterior. There are several “Cote de Boeuf” or cuts of beef on the menu, including a perfectly marbled ribeye that goes great with pommes frites.
With dishes like these, Myers has nothing to worry about. The view of the Las Vegas Strip and lively dining room satiates my need for entertainment and the delicious food satiates my appetite. The concept works.
“Like any city, you have to do the best job you can. You have to deliver the experience you say you’re going to deliver and if you deliver an experience people like, they’ll come back,” said Myers.
They will indeed.
Location: The Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas
Cuisine: French brasserie cuisine.
Open: Daily, for lunch and dinner.